Almost any sealer made for asphalt will work if the surface is prepared and the weather cooperates, and almost none will save a bad job. This guide shows how to read the pail, what the main product types mean and which supporting products matter.
In This Article
Read the pail before you pay
The front of the pail is marketing. The back tells you whether it suits an Ontario driveway. Check these eight things, in this order.
- The surface. It must say asphalt. Concrete sealers and driveway paint are different chemistry.
- Application methods. Brush, squeegee, roller or spray, and which one the maker allows.
- Temperature limits. The minimum air and surface temperature, and what it needs overnight while curing.
- Coverage per pail. Divide your driveway's area by it and you know how many pails one coat takes.
- Dilution and additives. Add water or sand only if the label says how. Stretching a pail with extra water thins the film.
- Dry and reopening times for foot traffic and vehicles.
- Safety directions. Gloves, eye protection, ventilation and disposal.
- Storage. Most water-based products must be kept from freezing.
The main product types in plain terms
| Type | What it is | Commonly described strengths | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Asphalt emulsion | Asphalt binder suspended in water, with fillers | The usual home choice, lower odour, no coal tar | Ask about its fuel and oil resistance if you park a leaking vehicle |
| Coal-tar based | Refined coal tar in a water emulsion | Once sold as tougher against fuel and oil | No longer an option: federal regulations banned its sale in Canada after December 31, 2025, apart from narrow permit exceptions |
| Acrylic or acrylic-modified | Acrylic polymers, alone or blended into an emulsion | Often quicker drying, and some come in colours | Confirm the label says asphalt, since some acrylics are for concrete or sports surfaces |
Makers' claims differ within each type. The technical data sheet, usually on the product's web page, is more informative than the label and worth reading before you buy.
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The supporting products that decide the result
The sealer gets the attention, yet prep products often decide how long the job lasts.
- Cleaner or degreaser made for driveways. Dirt and oil stop a coating from bonding.
- Crack filler. A pourable or tube filler for narrow and medium cracks. Sealer will not bridge them. See the common driveway sealing mistakes for what skipping this costs.
- Oil-spot primer. A separate product that locks down stains so they do not show through or lift the coat.
- Patch material for potholes and broken edges.
- Tools. A stiff broom, wire brush, a squeegee or wide brush for edges and, if the label calls for it, a sprayer.
What to skip on the shelf
- Concrete sealers and driveway paint. They are made for other surfaces and other jobs.
- Pails with no temperature range. If a maker will not say when the product cures, do not guess for it.
- Miracle claims. One-coat, ten-year and never-fade promises deserve doubt. The surface, the weather and your thickness control the result.
- The cheapest pail by default. A thin, low-solids product covers the same area with a weaker film. Compare the coverage rate and what the label asks of you, not the sticker alone.
- Sand additives you do not need. Some labels allow sand for grip. Add it only as directed, since it changes how the mix spreads and how it wears.
Buying and storing product in Ontario
Buy close to the job, not the previous autumn. A water-based emulsion left in an unheated garage through a hard freeze can separate or spoil, and it will not always show until you open it. Stir the pail thoroughly before use, since solids settle, and keep the lid tight between uses.
Round up when you buy. A rough, weathered surface soaks up more than a smooth one, and running out halfway through a coat leaves a visible seam. Then read the asphalt versus concrete sealer guide if you have any doubt about your surface. Leftover product and empty pails need disposing of properly. The Region of Waterloo runs household hazardous waste depots, so check the current rules before you pour anything down a drain.
When a store-bought kit is not enough
A kit suits a sound driveway with light wear. It struggles when the surface is badly cracked, soft, sunken or covered in a web of alligator cracks, because none of those are coating problems. A large, steep or heavily shaded driveway also turns a weekend job into a long, tiring one, and a rushed coat is a weak coat.
If you would like a second opinion, D&D Home Services quotes driveway sealing for free and confirms the scope in writing before work begins. Comparing that against your own shopping list is a fair way to decide.
Key Takeaways
- Any sealer made for asphalt can work if the surface is prepared and the weather cooperates, and none will rescue a bad prep job.
- Read the back of the pail: surface, application method, temperature limits, coverage, dilution, dry times, safety and storage.
- Asphalt-emulsion and acrylic sealers are the coal-tar-free choices sold today; coal-tar sealers can no longer be sold in Canada, so check the data sheet.
- Cleaner, crack filler and oil-spot primer often matter more than the sealer, and emulsions must be kept from freezing.
Sources & References
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