Sealing interlock is worth it when the pavers are sound, dry out quickly and are past their first months, and you are happy to repeat the job every few years. It is not worth it over a failing base, fresh efflorescence or damp shade. Read on for the real benefits, the downsides, when to skip or wait, what changes the cost and a simple checklist.
In This Article
What sealing does for interlock
Pavers do not need a sealer to survive. Sealing is about looks, stains and joints, and that is where it pays off.
- Stain resistance. Oil, rust and the tannin from maple and oak leaves soak in more slowly, so more of it rinses or wipes off. Films do this best, and a penetrating sealer may need an oil-repellent additive to match. Sealing slows staining but does not make pavers stain-proof.
- Colour. A film-forming sealer deepens colour as much or as little as the finish you choose. A natural finish leaves the stone as it is.
- Firmer joints. Over polymeric sand, a sealer helps hold the top of each joint together against rain, runoff and cleaning.
- Fewer weeds and ants. Full, firm joints give seeds and ants less to work with. Fewer, not none.
- Easier cleaning. Dirt sits on the surface instead of soaking in, so a gentle wash does more.
- Salt season. A sealed paver takes up less salty meltwater through freeze-thaw cycles. It is not armour, so rinse the pavers in spring.
The honest downsides, and what helps
| Downside | What it looks like | What helps |
|---|---|---|
| A repeat job | A fresh coat every few years, or the look slowly reverts to bare stone | Plan the cycle and recoat before the film wears through (see how often to reseal) |
| Slick finishes | A glossy film feels slippery when wet | A natural or satin finish, or an anti-slip additive |
| A poor application | Cloudy patches, roller lines, trapped moisture | Dry stone, thin coats, a test patch and a careful contractor |
| A surprise colour | Darker or shinier than you pictured | A test patch, and a lower sheen to start |
| No structural fix | Sunken, rocking or heaved pavers stay that way | Repair or re-lay first, since sealer cannot hold a moving surface together |
There is downtime too: cars and foot traffic stay off for the cure time on the label. A cloudy or built-up film is the most frustrating mistake, because it usually has to be stripped and redone.
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When to skip it, or wait
New pavers showing white powder. This is efflorescence, a mineral salt that can appear within weeks or months of installation and may linger for a season or more. Seal over it and the salts are locked under a dusty film. Ask the installer or paver maker when a first coat suits.
An uneven or shifting base. Re-level or re-lay first, then seal.
Heavily shaded pavers that stay damp. Sealer needs dry stone to go on and stay clear. Damp shade also grows moss and algae, and sealer does not cure the dampness that feeds them. Trimming branches, fixing drainage and regular cleaning will do more.
Permeable pavers. Their gaps are meant to drain, and sealer can block them. Ask the installer first.
A sheltered, lightly used path where you like a weathered look. Leaving it alone is a fine choice.
Failing old sealer is a different case. It is no reason to skip, but it has to come off before anything new goes on. Emptied joints need re-sanding first.
What changes the cost of sealing pavers
Sealing has no single price, because much of the job is everything around the sealer. These factors move a quote up or down:
- Area and shape. Steps, curves, tight corners and slopes take longer than an open driveway.
- Condition. Heavy stains, moss, efflorescence or an old sealer that must be stripped add work.
- Joint work. Pulling weeds, clearing joints and re-sanding with polymeric sand.
- The product. Penetrating or film-forming, the finish and the number of coats.
- Drying and weather. Shaded areas dry slowly, and rain pushes the schedule.
- Repairs. Re-levelling or replacing pavers is separate work.
Compare quotes line by line. A lower quote that leaves out cleaning or joint sand is not the same job, so ask for the product, finish, coats and cure time in writing.
A seal, wait or skip checklist
| Question | Seal if | Wait or skip if |
|---|---|---|
| Is the surface sound? | Flat, firm and the joints are full | Sunken, rocking or draining badly |
| How old are the pavers? | Past efflorescence, or the installer says go | New and still showing white powder |
| Does it dry? | Dries within a day of rain or washing | Stays damp in deep shade |
| What is the goal? | Stains, colour, firmer joints, salt season | You like the weathered look |
| Will you keep it up? | A recoat every few years is fine | You know you would not get to it |
| Is grip a worry? | Natural finish, or gloss with an additive | Gloss planned for steps or a pool edge, with no additive |
Mostly left-hand answers mean sealing is probably worth it. A right-hand answer to one of the first three questions means fix or wait first. If you do not know what sealer is on the pavers already, test a hidden patch.
Next steps, and what to ask a contractor
If the checklist says go, the order is wash, dry, re-sand the joints, give the sand its full cure, then seal in a dry, mild spell, usually between May and September. Choosing a finish is its own decision, covered in wet look vs natural paver sealer.
D&D Home Services does interlock and paver cleaning, re-sanding with polymeric sand and sealing around Kitchener-Waterloo, with free quotes confirmed in writing before work begins. Ask what is included, which product and finish, how moisture and haze are handled, and how long to stay off.
Key Takeaways
- Sealing helps with stains, colour, firmer joints, fewer weeds and ants, easier cleaning and salt season, but it is a repeat job every few years.
- It does not fix sunken, rocking or badly drained pavers, and a poor application can leave a cloudy or slippery surface.
- Wait or skip for new pavers still showing efflorescence, an uneven base or deep shade that stays damp.
- Cost depends on area, condition, joint work, product and coats, drying time and repairs, so compare quotes line by line.
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